BROCHURE

DESCRIPTION

ULTRABOND aluminium repair rod is a strong. easily applied weld or braze for repairing or fabricating aluminium and other non-ferrous metals. It is also compatible with zinc, copper, brass, bronze, die cast, pot metal, pewter and alloys of these metals. it is not compatible with ferrous metals (metals with an iron content). If in doubt, if a magnet sticks to the metal, ULTRABOND won't.

ULTRABOND's most valuable use, however, is for repairing broken aluminium or fabricating aluminium pieces. This is because the rod is applied at a low enough temperature (380C) to avoid melting, warping or crystalising the base metal. The rod has a higher tensile strength than aluminium. ULTRABOND actually penetrates aluminium chemically while in the molten state to form a 'fusion weld' that is stronger than the aluminium being welded. In addition, ULTRABOND is easily applied 'in house' with a small torch It is much less expensive than conventional aluminium welding, or part replacement.

3 EASY STEPS
1.. Clean the metal with a stainless steel brush
2. Heat the metal with a propane or oxy torch.
3. Test the metal temperature with ULTRABOND.
When the rod melts, make the repair.

MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE

If you are not completely satisfed with the ULTRABOND Aluminium Repair Rods, return the unused rods to the address below and your money will be refunded.
ULTRABOND is a registered name and a proprietary product.

PROPERTIES

Tensile Strength 150 mPa

Compression Strength 50 mPa

Shear Strength 50 mPa

Charpy Impact Strength,1/4 bar 25 Joules

Hardness (Brinell) 80

Ductility Excellent
Melting Point 380 C
Specific Gravity    6.7
Density 6.7gram/cc
Elongation (in 2")    3%
Linear Expansion 27.4 um/m2c
Electrical Conductivity    0% ofCu

boats
cars
tractors
roofs
gutters
utensils
tanks
caravans
mufflers
radiators
arburettors
ladders
chairs
engines
irrigation pipe
camping gear
stripped threads
alloy heads
refrigerators
pumps
gears
dairy equipment

STEP 1 CLEANING
Aluminium to be welded should be thoroughty cleaned to remove all paint, oil, oxidation and othercontaminants.
Use a stainless steel or brass brush to clean.
Do not use a steel wire brush, it contaminates the job. A clean file or grinder may be used if followed by stainless steel brushing.
If the aluminium is anodised, the anodised coating must be filed, ground or sanded off. Paint may be removed with paint thinner or blistered with a torch then brushed. Always brush the metal until shiny to remove all
oxidation. Metal will oxidise some under flame, so occasional brushing during a lengthy heating is useful. Always file cast aluminium and die cast as a stainless steel brush alone won't clean case aluminium adequately. tf the aluminium is oily, heat the metal and wash with vinegar or muratic acid, rinse with more vinegar. Dont rinse with water No need to wipe dry.

STEP 2 TINNING
After the metal to be welded is clean, it must be heated to the metting point of the ULTRABOND rod which is 380C. If using propane, tailor the size of the flame to the amount of metal to be heated. Large pieces require a bigger flame. Use a neutral or soft flame with oxy-acetaiyn. MAP gas is also useful.
Remember you are heating the metal, not the rod. When the metal is hot enough to melt ULTRABOND to a shiny wet appearance the areas to be welded should be tinned by scratching or "scrubbing" the rod on the metal. This breaks the surface tension of the puddle and allows the motten rod to break down
oxidation that may be present on the surface of the metal.
tf you suspect that the puddle is not penetrating through the metal, scratch the metal through the molten puddle with a stainless steel wire or a sharpe knife or tool. Another variation on this strategy is to brush the puddle away while it is still hot, then tin the surface a second time.
When repairing a crack, tin both sides of the crack. When joining two pieces of metal, tin both pieces
When reparing a hole or leaking boat rivet, tin the area around the hole

STEP 3 WELDING
When all appropriate areas have been tinned, brush rod tip from tinned area to tinned area to join the tinned surfaces with a continuous puddle or bead ULTRABOND has good surface tension in the puddle and will easily span small gaps. holes and cracks. ULTRABOND penetrates the surface of aluminium, forming an extra strong bond, and efficient joints are formed by bridging. Since ULTRABOND is stronger than aluminium, the joints will be stronger than the surrounding area. Let the weld air cool. DO NOT quench

TYPES OF WELD

Butt Weld
When joining pieces, clamp together so they won't move until weld is cooled. Butt welds may be made three ways; (1) adding fillet across the gap; (2) tinning facing surfaces, putting them together and moving them slightly under heat to break surface tension of the puddle; or (3) bevelling the Byo pieces together, tinning and adding fillet to fill the groove. (See illustration below).

Lap Weld
These can be made two ways: (1) at the end ot each piece at point of overlay, or (2) tin both pieces wth extra rod, heat and press together (See illustration below).

Welding Pipe
Pipe can be welded by tinning pieces, adding a small amount of fillet on the top, letting the work cool, tuming the pipe and repeating the process until the weld is complete. This can be accomplished without tuming the pipe by tinning both pieces and, starting at the bottom, and heating sparingly, off to the side and above the work, weld to the top end repeat on the other side. Both these techniques require delicate heat control and practice. Welding a seam •uphill• in the vertical position is done like welding pipe in the uphill position

Stripped Threads
These can be fixed by drilling out the hole oversized, backing the hole with iron, steel. stainless steel, tin or putty, heating the metal, tinning the sides of the hole, bottom first, working up, then fill the hole with ULTRA BOND. Then drill and tap.

Vertical Welds
Tin all areas to be welded, then add fillet to desired depth throughout by starting at the bottom and pull the molten ULTRA BOND up the weld.

Missing Metal
May be replaced by backing the edge(s) of the metal next to the void with iron, steel. stainless steel, tin or putty Heat the base metal. Tin the base metal and build the puddle out on the backing material. Of course the new metal may be filed or ground to shape, and/or drilled and tapped. (See illustration)

Die Cast
These directions also apply for pot metal, white metal and pewter. The "puddling" technique is used. Clean the base metal thoroughly and clamp the piece securely. File or grind the area to be repaired. then clean with a stainless or brass brush. Heat the metal and rod together and blend. Use a backing when possible to protect your piece. Since ULTRABOND and the base metal melt at similar temperatures, you will be welding, ie. mixing, the rod and the base metal at the same time. If you have not worked with die cast before, practice on a scrap piece before you begin.

Galvanised Steel and Zinkalume
Follow the cleaning, tinning and welding steps described earlier. You are not welding steel, but rather the coating. This will not work on rusted metal.

Magnesium
ULTRABOND is NOT compatible with magnesium. To determine magnesium, file piece to be repaired and torch filings. If they flare or burn STOP! DO NOT attempt to repair magnesium with an open flame torch. Fire may result.

Mag Alloys
Weld similar to aluminium. Heat base metal, tin ULTRA BOND and weld. If ULTRABOND foams on base metal the magnesium content is too high and will not weld. Keep heat low. use neutral burning flame on all Mag-Alloys.

SAFETY
As with all welding or brazing, work in a well-ventilated area. Wash hands thoroughly after using.
Avoid over-exposure to fumes. Wear gloves, goggles and other protective clothing when cutting, grinding or machining. DO NOT IMMERSE MOLTEN MATERIAL IN WATER, OIL OR OTHER WET AREAS.
Let your ULTRABOND weld or braze air cool until able to be touched.

HELPFUL HINTS
(1) Hold the ULTRABOND rod in the hand you write with, since more dexterity is needed to manifulate the rod than for the torch.
(2) For the strongest welds, the base metal, rods, hands and tools should be as clean as possible.
(3) Use the rod as a temperature indicator or "heat stick" while heating the base metal. When the rod melts when rubbing the base metal, lower heat (back off with torch). When the rod won't melt, continue heat or add more heat, until it will. (4) Propane is a good fuel to use with ULTRABOND. Torches of many heat ranges are available at welding supply and hardware stores. When using an oxy-acetylene torch, take extra care not to oxidise the weld area.

(4) Use low heat, carbonising flame, and heat surrounding area, not the weld joint.